Our
Turkey-to-Greece
Sailing Adventure !
Kos
to Leros
This is an example
of a typical sailing itinerary from Kos to Leros. However, no
two trips are ever exactly the same; one of the greatest things
about a sailboat is the flexibility to change our minds and our
route to suit personal preferences and prevailing wind conditions.
The start and finish points are fixed, of course - but all else
is changeable according to the whims of the wind gods and those
on board!
Day 1 Rendezvous in Kos at 9am. A busy, bustling metropolis,
Kos town is very much the "package tour destination"
of the Dodecanese - the nightlife, etc is fun for a short while,
but there's nothing like waving goodbye to those the sardine-packed
beaches, as we sail away to explore the "real" Greek
islands
Our destination for
the afternoon is the tiny harbour of Vathi, on the island of Kalymnos.
It is a very dramatic little spot; a well-hidden and very narrow
fjord-like entrance, opening up into a small fishing village at
the head of the bay. It boasts one main street and a collection
of houses scattered into the valley; an unexpected patch of lush
vegetation on an otherwise very dry and arid-looking island. Vathi
is the only place on the entire island that is lucky enough to
have it's own spring water supply, and they use it carefully to
cultivate citrus fruits, figs, grapes and anything else that can
be persuaded to grow!
It's also the home
of Poppy's- one of our "adopted families" around here,
where momma makes the best homemade dolmades (stuffed grapeleaves)
you'll ever taste in your life, and the swordfish steaks are out
of this world !!
Day 2 After
a leisurely start to the morning, we'll be sailing north for our
next anchorage - Paleonissos, a little-known secret tucked well
away in the north of the island. It is a dramatic and wild, sheer-sided
bay; little here apart from herds of goats, the sound of their
bells echoing around the hillside. It's anchorages like this which
make landlubbers fall in love with the cruising lifestyle ! With
no distracting light around, the night sky is a dramatic sight;
many an hour has been spent sitting on deck / on the beach simply
star-gazing.
Our unlikely-seeming
dinner spot is a hike-and-scramble 5mins inland, through bushes
of sweet-smelling sage - to the backyard of our local buddy Nicolas.
Nick is quite the eccentric and entertaining character, who delights
in telling stories of the old Kalymnian sponge divers, and inviting
his music-loving companions from nearby villages to serenade us!
Day 3 Sail to Pandeli
Bay, a beautiful
little bay on the east coast of Leros. This is one of the prettiest
anchorages to sail into you can imagine; a horseshoe-shaped bay
with traditional blue-and-white houses scattered down the hillside;
11th century fortress which towers over the bay; a couple of little
beach tavernas just 2 mins swim from the boat. For those with
nighttime energy to burn off, there is the infamous Savana Bar
a very idiosyncratic little local hangout, where we often end
up dancing the night away !
Day 4 Our destination for today will depend on wind conditions
- if it is not too strong from the north, we will sail for Marathi;
a truly tiny little island which is home to just three families;
a real sandy beach, and sparkling clear water to swim and snorkel.
A beautifully tranquil spot, this little place has the most incredibly
relaxing "vibes" , a very soothing balm to the stressed-out-city-living-spirit
!
Our alternative for
the day is Lipsos - island of the 42 blue-domed churches! It is
a small, untouristy village, with an unruly array of whitewashed
buildings scattered around the bay. The vivid streaks of traditional
blue trim and the blazing bougainvillea pinks & purples make
it a real photographers' dream! To cool off, there is a lovely
little sandy beach, 5mins walk over the hill from where we moor
the boats, and a great hike out to the point for those needing
to burn off some of those calamari !
If we're lucky and
conditions are calm, we may be able to visit Macro Nisi (the "cave"
island) for a swim stop en route. It's a secluded little anchorage
with sheer-sided cliffs, which have been known to entice the braver
(or more foolhardy !) amongst us to throw caution to the wind
and leap off them ! For those more inclined to be adventurous
in/under the water, there's also a swim-through hole to snorkel
through to the cave the other side.
Day 5 Sail to Patmos - an early start to make the most of
exploring the famous Monastery Island, where St John was inspired
by visions to write the Book of Revelations. The 10th century
monastery (built by Crusader Knights) reigns over the island,
still an active and influential part of daily life here. The village
that lies at the foot of the monastery is everyone's romantic
image of a Greek village; narrow winding alleyways scarcely wide
enough for a skinny donkey! - cats sunning themselves on whitewashed
streets, old ladies in black collecting fresh bread from the bakery
in the morning. It's well worth an early rise to get up there
in the early morning hours; the old ladies will look at you in
faint amazement that a foreigner should find their way up there
at such an hour; if you can remember enough of our Greek lessons
to say "kalimera!" (good morning), they'll give you
a huge smile and a "kalimera-sas" back (good morning
to you too!)
The island's attractions
are not solely for culture/history buffs, however - there are
dozens of little beaches and bays to explore, the old priest who
looks after the island's stray cats to visit (who just so happens
to be a former choreographer for Liz Taylor!); and last but not
least, the greatest milkshakes and homemade pies on "Quiche
Beach" !
Day 6 Set sail southwards
again - a lovely downwind leg of around 3-4 hours. Stop for
lunch and swim at Archangelos, a tiny island whose turquoise-coloured
waters make wonderful "make-'em-totally-jealous-back-home"
shots ! We'll end in the main port of Lakki (on Leros) late afternoon.
There's one last chance
to soak up the sun on the little beach just around the corner
from the yachts, or maybe just chill out with a beer / ice-cream
frappe in the marina's taverna. Farewell dinner at Vromolithos
- a beautiful beachfront taverna with amazing views over the bay
- and, for a final night's grand finale - live Greek music !
Day 7 Disembarkation 9am in Lakki.
Ongoing connection info: One flight per day Leros- Athens,
departs approx 10.30am. There are usually 2-3 hydrofoil connections
to Samos and Kos per day; takes 2-2.5hrs. These slands have 4-5
flights per day back to Athens.
It is also possible to get the overnight ferry to Athens; departs
late evening, usually between 10-12pm. Takes 8-10hrs. Cabins are
comfortable and it is quite a fun, relaxing trip usually. The
ferry dock is 5mins walk from our marina base; the airport is
15mins taxi ride.
Connections to Turkey; 1-2 ferries per day from Samos-Kusadasi
; 2 ferries daily from Kos to either Bodrum or Turgutreis. The
fast catamaran connects Leros to Rhodes twice a day; there are
also ferries from Rhodes-Marmaris
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