Our
Turkey-to-Greece
Sailing Adventure !
Leros
to Kos
This is an example
of a typical itinerary on our Greece-to-Turkey trips. However,
no two trips are ever exactly the same; one of the greatest things
about being on a sailboat is the flexibility to change our minds
and our route to suit personal preferences, prevailing wind conditions,
etc. The start and finish points are fixed, of course - but all
else is changeable according to the whims of the wind gods and
those on board!
Day 1 Embark 11am
in Lakki (main harbour on Leros). After boat briefing, unpacking,
and generally getting comfortable with the yacht, we'll set sail
for Lipsos - island of the 42 blue-domed churches! It is the perfect
introduction to "traditional Greece"; a small, untouristy
village, with an unruly array of whitewashed buildings scattered
around the bay. The vivid streaks of traditional blue trim and
the blazing bougainvillea pinks & purples make it a real photographers'
dream!
To cool off, there
is a lovely little sandy beach, 5mins walk over the hill from
where we moor the boats, and a great hike out to the point for
those needing to burn off some of those calamari !
If we're lucky and
conditions are calm, we may be able to visit Macro Nisi (the "cave"
island) for a swim stop en route. It's a secluded little anchorage
with sheer-sided cliffs, which have been known to entice the braver
(or more foolhardy !) amongst us to throw caution to the wind
and leap off them ! For those more inclined to be adventurous
in/under the water, there's also a swim-through hole to snorkel
through to the cave the other side.
Day 2 After
chance to wander around the village of Lipsos, we'll head out
mid-morning for Arki - a little island which boasts a permanent
population of just 47 people ! (The population expands considerably
if you count the goats, however). There is just one tiny port,
a few houses scattered down the hillside - and most of all, Manoli's
place. Mr Cool Dude Manoli runs a wonderful little oasis of a
taverna; cushions scattered around the shady patio, speakers hidden
away in the trees; Manoli has great taste in music and the most
incredible CD collection and sound system you can imagine on an
island of 47 people! Get him in the right mood, and he's also
a hot dancer
as are all his nieces and nephews !
Day 3 Sail to Patmos
- an early start to make the most of exploring the famous Monastery
Island, where St John was inspired by visions to write the Book
of Revelations. The 10th century monastery (built by Crusader
Knights) reigns over the island, still an active and influential
part of daily life here. The village that lies at the foot of
the monastery is everyone's romantic image of a Greek village;
narrow winding alleyways scarcely wide enough for a skinny donkey!
- cats sunning themselves on whitewashed streets, old ladies in
black collecting fresh bread from the bakery in the morning. It's
well worth an early rise to get up there in the early morning
hours; the old ladies will look at you in faint amazement that
a foreigner should find their way up there at such an hour; if
you can remember enough of our Greek lessons to say "kalimera!"
(good morning), they'll give you a huge smile and a "kalimera-sas"
back (good morning to you too) ! (Note: that's "kali-MER-a",
not "calamari" ! :> ).
The island's attractions
are not solely for culture/history buffs, however - there are
dozens of little beaches and bays to explore, the old priest who
looks after the island's strays to visit (our ex-Liz-Taylor's-choreographer!);
and last but not least, the greatest milkshakes and homemade pies
on "Quiche Beach" !
Day 4 Sail for Pandeli,
a beautiful little bay on the east side of Leros. This is one
of the prettiest anchorages to sail into you can imagine; a horseshoe-shaped
bay with traditional blue-and-white houses scattered down the
hillside; 11th century fortress which towers over the bay; a couple
of little beach tavernas just 2 mins swim from the boat. Try sitting
and watching the moon rise from one of these tavernas, boat in
the foreground, the lapping of waves almost at your feet
it's a total "Shirley Valentine" scene ! For those with
more energy to burn off later, there is the infamous Savana Bar
a very idiosyncratic little local hangout, where we often end
up dancing the night away till the wee small hours! Another great
island to rent scooters and explore.
Day 5 Leave Pandeli around midday, giving us the morning
to make the most of our time on Leros. Paleonissos is our destination
- a little-known secret of the next island south, Kalymnos. A
complete contrast - a dramatic, sheer-sided bay tucked well away
in the north of the island; anchorages like this are what make
landlubbers fall in love with the cruising lifestyle ! There is
little here apart from herds of goats; at dusk and dawn, the sound
of their bells echoes around the hillside - not a bad alarm call
! With no distracting light around, the night sky is a dramatic
sight; many an hour has been spent sitting on deck / on the beach
simply star-gazing. Our unlikely-seeming dinner spot is a hike-and-scramble
5mins inland, through bushes of sweet-smelling sage - to the backyard
of our local buddy Nicolas, an eccentric character who delights
in telling stories of the old Kalymnian sponge fishers, and inviting
his music-loving companions from nearby villages to serenade us!
Day 6 A leisurely
morning, then a short downwind sail to Vathi - a well-hidden and
very narrow fjord-like entrance, opening up into a tiny fishing
village at the head of the bay. It boasts one main street and
a collection of houses scattered into the valley; an unexpected
patch of lush vegetation on an otherwise very dry and arid-looking
island. Vathi is the only place on the entire island that is lucky
enough to have it's own spring water supply, and they use it carefully
to cultivate citrus fruits, figs, grapes and anything else that
can be persuaded to grow! It's also the home of "Poppy's"
- a wonderful little family taverna, where Poppy's mom makes the
best homemade dolmades (stuffed grapeleaves) you'll ever taste
in your life, and the swordfish steaks are out of this world !!
Note: this anchorage
is very dependent on prevailing weather conditions; should they
not be favourable (or if the group prefers a night on the town
in Kos), we will sail on and spend the night in Kos there instead.
Day 7 An early
am sail for Kos - yes, we're talking sunrise here !! It's a beautiful
time to be out on the water
. if you've never experienced
this before, it's well worth dragging yourself out of bed! Kos
is where we officially clear out of Greece, which - Greek bureaucracy
being as it is, can take a while. So whilst the skipper(s) deal
with paperwork, there is plenty of time to go see the castle and
the famous plane tree where Hippocrates supposedly taught (for
the more culturally-inclined); or enjoy a great chocolate milkshake
on the busy waterfront for others!
Disembark 9am in Kos.
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