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Our Turkey-to-Greece
Sailing Adventure !

Leros to Samos

This is an example of a typical itinerary on our Leros-Samos route. However, no two trips are ever exactly the same; one of the greatest things about being on a sailboat is the flexibility to change our minds and our route to suit personal preferences, prevailing wind conditions, etc. The start and finish points are fixed, of course - but all else is changeable according to the whims of the wind gods and those on board !

Day 1 Your yacht will be awaiting you at 11am in Lakki (main harbour, west coast of Leros). We'll have drinks, boat chat, show you the ropes - and then head off for our first destination of Vathi; a relaxing downwind sail to ease those landlubberly legs into shape slowly! About 3 hrs sail time.

Vathi is a dramatic little spot; a well-hidden and very narrow fjord-like entrance, opening up into a tiny fishing village at the head of the bay. It boasts one main street and a collection of houses scattered into the valley; an unexpected patch of lush vegetation on an otherwise very dry and arid-looking island. Vathi is the only place on the entire island that is lucky enough to have it's own spring water supply, and they use it carefully to cultivate citrus fruits, figs, grapes and anything else that can be persuaded to grow!

It's also the home of Poppy's taverna - one of our "adopted families" around here, where momma makes the best homemade dolmades (stuffed grapeleaves) you'll ever taste in your life, and the swordfish steaks are out of this world !!

Day 2 Sail to Paleonissos - a little-known secret of Kalymnos! Another dramatic and mountainous bay, tucked well away in the north of the island; anchorages like this are what make landlubbers fall totally in love with the cruising lifestyle ! There is little here apart from herds of goats; at dusk and dawn, the sound of their bells echoes around the hillside. With no distracting light around, the night sky is a dramatic sight; many an hour has been spent sitting on deck / on the beach simply star-gazing. Our unlikely-seeming dinner spot is a hike-and-scramble 5mins inland, through bushes of sweet-smelling sage - to the backyard of our local buddy Nicolas. Nick is a very eccentric character who delights in telling stories of the old Kalymnian sponge divers, and sometimes invites his music-loving companions from nearby villages to serenade us - bouzouki, guitar or even a goat-bladder (yes, really!)

Day 3 After breakfast and morning swims, we'll sail to Pandeli Bay on the east coast of Leros. This is one of the prettiest anchorages to sail into you can imagine; a horseshoe-shaped bay with traditional blue-and-white houses scattered down the hillside; 11th century fortress which towers over the bay; a couple of little beach tavernas just 2 mins swim from the boat. For those with plenty of night-owl energy, there is the infamous Savana Bar - a very idiosyncratic little local hangout, where we often end up dancing the night away!

Day 4 Sail to Agathonissi - approx 3-4hrs. A small, traditional island with just one fishing port, plus two tiny villages perched on top of the hillside; a population of just 150 people. On arrival, we'll no doubt be greeted by our host Giorgos - a.k.a. Unofficial Harbour Master and Ouzo King of Agathonissi ! A colourful evening at George's is usually on the menu; he loves to see our yachts sailing in - it's a great excuse for a party on an otherwise quiet and isolated island.

Day 5 Early morning sail to Marathi - a truly tiny little island with a sandy, horseshoe-shaped beach, beautiful water to swim and snorkel in; a totally tranquil and peaceful spot. If you could paint a picture of the perfect, idyllic island retreat, Marathi would be it ! There are just three families living here; wonderfully friendly and hospitable people. Great food too!! This place is a magical balm for the stressed-out city-living soul….so much so that it's often been hard to persuade people that, really, we should leave, there are other islands to visit ! Sail time: approx 3hrs.

Day 6 Sail to Samos - a real contrast from the last two tiny, remote little islands! Samos is quite the upmarket, cosmopolitan island; the little harbour of Pythagorion is lined with dozens of tavernas along the waterfront. Pythagorion is the birthplace of the famous mathematician, Pythagoras; who had a most ingenious way of making sure his students did not drink too much wine at his lectures. Check out the "Pythagoras Cup"! It's a pretty little port; can get somewhat crowded and noisy in mid-summer months; definitely the place to hit the town and live up the nightlife for those so inclined!

For those staying on longer in Samos - there is plenty to see and do ! Samos is beautifully green, with mountains covered with pine forests, streams, stunning cliffs and beaches - quite a contrast to most of the other Dodecanese islands, which aren't exactly what you'd call lush. We'd highly recommend renting a jeep and exploring all over the island for a day. There is also the chance to take a daytrip to Turkey and visit Kusadasi and Ephesus - great bargain-hunting in Kusadasi's maze of bazaars, and immensely impressive ruins of the ancient city at Ephesus (the Acropolis has nothing on this ! ).

Day 7 Disembark 9am in Samos.


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